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Bangkok Travelbug June 2019 Exploring Uthai Thani – two special temples June 12, 2019 |
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Uthai Thani is a province about 230 km north of Bangkok in the northern sector of the Chao Phraya basin. It's about a three-hour forty minutes' drive, if you include breaks about four and a half hours. The Mon from Myanmar and the Lawa from Northern Thailand were the early settlers in Uthai Thani prior to the Sukhothai era. In the Sukhothai era in the 13th C, the first Thai settlement was in an area that was later abandoned because the river changed its course. Remnants of this ancient city are located in Nong Chang district 25 km west of Uthai Thani City. In the Ayutthaya era (14th – 18th C), the Karen settled in the present location of Uthai Thani City by the Sakae Krang River. During this period the city served as a fortified city protecting the northern flank of Ayutthaya. Today there is a Karen community in Ban Rai in the western sector of the province. The Sakae Krang River starts from a network of waterways 30 km to the north, winds its way through Uthai Thani before joining the Chao Phraya just south of Uthai Thani City. This is the main river in Uthai Thani and along various parts of the river there are several rafts on the river banks with houses built on them. 
Raft house on the Sakae Krang River Uthai Thani's crowning glory is Huai Kha Khaeng which is part of the Thung Yai – Huai Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary that stretches from Kanchanaburi through Uthai Thani covering most of the west part of the province and finally to Tak in the north. This vast wildlife sanctuary is more than 300 km long from north to south and covers 6,222 sq km (1.54 m acres). It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in December 1991.* 
Part of the Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary from a viewing point in Ban Rai in the western part of Uthai Thani *Source: UNESCO web site at https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/591 As you approach Uthai Thani City from the east along highway 333, you will see the long green ridge of Khao Sakae Krang (Mount Sakae Krang). On the slopes of this ridge are displayed in bold white letters in Thai, "Mueang Phra Chanok Chakri" – City of the Royal Father of Chakri. The father of King Rama I was a native of Uthai Thani. He was born in a place called Ban Sakae Krang, around the vicinity of Khao Sakae Krang. King Rama I was born Thong Duang and one of his titles before he became king was Chao Phraya Chakri. 
Khao Sakae Krang – a landmark in Uthai Thani Contents Wat Tha Sung – Viharn Kaew Wat Tha Sung or Wat Chantaram is an old temple that dates back to the Ayutthaya days. It's famous for its Viharn Kaew or Glass Viharn. On the map it's also called in Thai, "100-metre Viharn" because of its length. The other attraction is Prasart Kham Thong or the Golden Palace. The temple is located along route 3265 about 8 km south-east of the city centre. The old temple site is on the left by the river. You don't have go there as the attractions are in the new temple site to the right. The temple grounds are huge, more than 1.62 sq. km or almost 400 acres. Within buildings lining the temple grounds are 159 Buddha statues. You will need transport to move around. Uthai Thani has its unique form of public transport; it's neither a "tuk tuk" or a "song taeo". I don't know what to call it. They come in different configurations; some are larger, able to accommodate eight people. Others like the one in the photo can only take two or three at a squeeze. We took one of these to the Glass Viharn. 
Our transport for the temple tour The relatively plain exterior of Viharn Kaew didn't give us an idea of what to expect inside. 
The entrance to Viharn Kaew As it was Vesakha Day, a holy day, the temple was packed with people. The scene inside the Glass Viharn is simply stunning, little pieces of glass glittering with light all over the cavernous hall! 
Streams of glittering light At the other end of the viharn is a huge Buddha image in gold and worshippers filled the floor of the viharn from where I was right up to the Buddha image at the far end. 
Buddha image in the distance At the end nearer the entrance, there is the preserved body of Luang Por Ruesri Lingdum, the abbot who was responsible for building this beautiful structure and many of the buildings in the new wing of the temple. 
In memory of the abbot who was responsible for Viharn Kaew 
A memorable sight indeed After visiting Viharn Kaew we dropped in at Prasart Thong Kham, the Golden Palace, another majestic structure in Wat Tha Sung. 
Prasart Thong Kham – the Golden Palace Here are some photos of the interior; pillars, ceilings and door carvings of gold. 
Contents Wat Sangkat Rattana Khiri Wat Sangkat Rattana Khiri is another temple in Uthai Thani with a very special feature. The temple is located at the foot of Khao Sakae Krang and has a beautiful viharn of gold. 
The viharn of gold The Buddha image in here dates back to the Sukhothai era. 
Buddha image in the viharn However, there is another part of the temple located up on Khao Sakae Krang. You could drive up by another way or you could walk up this way. 
The way up We decided to take the challenge. There was lots of encouragement from visitors on their way down. Finally, we made it to the top. A visitor up there told me I had just completed 449 steps! The information board confirms this. Had I known about this earlier, I might not have tried. 
Signboard indicating 449 steps on the way down The main attraction at the top is the replica of Buddha's footprint that is housed in a multi-tiered pavilion. 
The pavilion where the replica of Buddha's footprint is kept, note the bell in the foreground 
Replica of Buddha's footprint There is also a bronze bell cast in the reign of King Rama V and visitors to Uthai Thani make it a point to ring this bell as an indication that they have been there. The reward for the long, hard climb is this beautiful view of Uthai Thani City. 
Panoramic view of the city The way down was relatively easier but still be careful, hang on to the railings lest your legs give way. 
The way down During our first visit here, we missed a very important monument up on Khao Sakae Krang; the monument to the father of King Rama I. This is because the monument is at the other end of the long ridge nearer the entrance to the carpark and our legs were too wobbly to explore further. On our second trip a fortnight later, we drove up to Khao Sakae Krang. The way up is at the northern end of the ridge where the sports stadium is located. It was a pleasant drive up a very gentle slope. 
The way up Khao Sakae Krang – a favourite with cyclists The monument is in a pavilion built on a slight rise of ground away from the temple buildings. The father of King Rama I, a native of Ban Sakae Krang, was born Duang Di and was later awarded the title of Somdet Phra Pathom Borom Chanoknat. 
Monument to the Royal Father of Chakri When I turned around to take a photo of the view below, I noticed that the monument was sited to face highway 333, the main road leading to and from Uthani Thani City. It was almost like a silent sentinel guarding the approaches to the city. 
View from the monument facing highway 333 Somewhere in the vicinity of Khao Sakae Krang 282 years ago, a man fathered a son who was to start a dynasty of monarchs of Thailand that has reached its 10th generation today. Uthai Thani is proud of this legacy. Contents Map of Uthai Thani City If the map doesn’t appear, click on this link Wat Tha Sung Address Wat Tha Sung Mu 2 Tambon Nam Sum Amphur Mueang Uthai Thani Opening hours Main temple grounds, open every day 10:30 am – 06:30 pm Viharn Kaew (Glass Viharn) is open every day from 9:30 – 11:30 am and from 2:00 – 4:00 pm. It is closed for meditation from 11:30 am – 2:00 pm Prasart Thong Kham (Golden Palace) is open every day from 8:00 am – 4:00 pm Admission Free admission How to get there From the city centre, turn into route 3265. Stay on this route till you get to Wat Tha Sung. The older part of the temple should be on your left. Go to the new wing that's on your right. Wat Sangkat Rattana Khiri Address Wat Sangkat Rattana Khiri Thanon Tha Chang Tambon Nam Sum Amphur Mueang Uthai Thani Open every day 8:00 am – 4:30 pm Free admission How to get there For the part of temple at the foot of Khao Sakae Krang, go along route 333 and turn into Soi Wat Sangkat. Keep going till get to the temple. For the part of the temple on Khao Sakae Krang, go along route 333, continue onto route 3220. At the Uthai Thani Provincial Sports Centre turn left and follow the road up to Khao Sakae Krang. Have a safe and enjoyable trip! See you next month. Contents Next month Hup Pa Tat – the cave of wonders in Uthai Thani If you enjoyed reading this e-zine, please forward it to a friend. If you received this from a friend and found it interesting, please subscribe at Bangkok Travelbug. What do you think of the Bangkok Travelbug? We love to hear from you What other subscribers have said Till next month then. Eric Lim Tour Bangkok Legacies Find us on Facebook Tour Bangkok Legacies - Kindle paperback edition For those who prefer reading printed books rather than e-books, here's the paperback edition of Tour Bangkok Legacies, which will help you along as you explore the streets of Bangkok and discover its old treasures. It's complete with historical descriptions and directions on how to get to these places. My Kindle paperback edition 
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